Showing posts with label Amalfi Coast. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Amalfi Coast. Show all posts

August 26, 2013

The Path of the Gods



Legend has it that once Gods of “Monti Lattari” used to follow a path across the hillside parallel to the sea, to go and admire the beauty of the Sirens of the gulf of Naples and to enjoy their bewitching songs while bathing in Positano’s waters;  this ancient path was called “The Path of the Gods”. Its name derives probably by its location, the path is in fact situated half way at the foot of Mount St. Angelo a Tre Pizzi you can admire one of the most spectacular landscape in the world, which is the western part of the Amalfi Coast from Praiano to Capri. Along the promenade, you can cover all the typical features of the Mediterranean, from the flora with herbs and aromas of traditional local cuisine, to the fauna characterized by the presence of weasels, foxes and hedgehogs in a place where the clear sky is dominated by peregrine falcons, swallows, owls and crows. The route can be made in both directions but generally, the departure is from Bomerano (you can also enter along the path from Praiano passing the Convent of St. Dominic) and you come up to Montepertuso.

The most striking part of the path is for sure the one that goes from “Grotta Biscotto” to Nocelle, which is exceptionally interesting and scenic from beginning to end. The first one is a natural cave an exemplary site of rare geological effect, full of stories that invigorate the beauty of these places, it treasures in fact, well-preserved ruins of ancient artefacts used as animal shelters and deposits. Nocelle is on the other hand, a characteristic small village, which was once linked to Positano Village only by a long staircase.

Left behind the remains of ancient settlements in the rock of “Grotta Biscotto”, you will soon meet a majestic amphitheatre of horrid crags, and then the spectacular "Pinnacolo”, on which we see what is left of a plaque in memory of Giustino Fortunato, who seems to have given its name to this path. Keep on following the path we reach the fork to Colle Serra, there, in a blue landscape, it will be possible to admire the breathtaking landscape formed by Li Galli Island, the Vetara rock and the ridges of Mount San Costanzo which gently slopes towards Punta Campanella. The vegetation at this point changes quite radically and you pass by a few shrubs and grass at a spot full of dense oaks, arbutus, heather and rosemary. Along the trail are steep some places, there are ravines, abandoned terraces and empty houses. All this brings us back to a bygone world tied to the hard work of the earth, but was relieved by the mild climate and the beauty of the Amalfi.

Following a very tortuous and full of ups and downs path, we finally reach “Vallone Grarelle”, with its caves and deep coves, and later the little village of Nocelle.
From the little village you can get off on Coastal Route making about 1500 steps and arriving in Arienzo, or continue up to Montepertuso reaching Monte Gambera site of the legendary battle between the Virgin Mary and the Devil. Traces of this mystical fight are today visible and are said to be: the imprint in the rock of Lucifer’s tail, traces of the Madonna and the girl, by her lit, footsteps, as well as the highly visible and famous hole, which is said to have been stamped in the mountain by the index finger of the Madonna.

Legend has it that the noise of the controversy was so intense, that the brigands who used to live in the surrounding caves were awakened in their sleep and watched astonished the battle. It is also said that from that moment on, the earthly personification of the Devil, the brigands, stopped to live there and abandoned the caves of Montepertuso. It is right here in Montepertuso that ends the Path of the Gods, and is from this point that you can reach the center of Positano.

August 8, 2013

Furore (Salerno)





Furore is an Italian town of 837 inhabitants in the province of Salerno in Campania. Since 1997, as the whole Amalfi Coast, it has been included in the UNESCO World Heritage, and it is also part of the prestigious “Club of the most beautiful villages of Italy”. The Club has a particular list to which they enrolled no more than three hundred and fifty villages. Despite the small town has been known for long time as a fjord, it is actually a narrow stretch of water at the mouth of a valley cliff, created by the ongoing work of the Schiato River that from Agerola runs along the mountain to dive at sea.

Moreover, bypassing the fjord, we find the local highway, which with its suspension bridge 30 meters high overlook the tiny beach. The inlet was once a fishing village, but, being subsequently abandoned, is now a fully recovered beach in which hinterland are also settled: An ancient village, a mill - paper mill, as well as “The spandituro” and a lime kiln. The picturesque group of cottages overlooking the shoreline, nestled on the mountainside, is the ancient village of anglers. These constructions also known as “Monazzeni” (from the ancient greek "living alone"), forms a unique architectural ensemble.

Roberto Rossellini, a famous movie director, and his lover Anna Magnani, once inhabited this little inlet, in fact to them is dedicated the small museum “Costa Diva”. The Mill is no doubt the most interesting artefact, by type and spatial complexity. The building in fact, dates back to the early nineteenth century, and spread over four levels, which were once used for grinding the grain and producing the typical paper "Coast". The feature that sets it apart and makes it unique compared to other mills in the Amalfi Coast, is the system of the “Torre Piezometrica”, which was once a system particularly advanced for the time, and imported from the Saracens. In the mezzanine floor, we can find the “Abituro”, the room where the miller used to stay.

Today the building has become an interesting MUSEUM. Inside, one can still see the ancient baths of local stone for the maceration of the rags, the vat and the channels for the flow of water. While behind him, close to the rocky ridge you can see the duct system for the supply of water, which served as a support to the water towers of grain mill and paper mill. On the eastern side of the fjord is located the ancient “Spandituro”, a rectangular building, used in the past as a shelter for the paper freshly brewed and left to dry. Today it houses a modern and well-equipped conference room. Next, separate from the “Spandituro” we can find the place where the paper was finished, the lime kiln, characterized by the local circular and vaulted roof lowered, with the original function of furnace for the production of lime. Currently there, we can find a small snack bar and gift shop.